This useful step-by-step guide will have you capture beautiful Pinsta art in no time! Martin recorded a full process video that shows how easy it is to shoot analog 4x5" photos, onto Harman Direct Positive paper. There's an overview in writing below the video too, with some additional information you won't want to miss. If you have any questions after watching and reading, feel free to reach out to us!
1. Prepare the developer (in this example: Adox Neutol Eco). Add 40ml of water to 10ml of developer. When using Ilford Multigrade developer, add 90ml of water to 10ml of developer. Always follow the instructions (about dilution, shelf life, temperature for use, etc.) provided by the manufacturer.
2. Prepare fixer (in this example: Adox Adofix Plus). Add 40ml of water to 10ml of developer. When using Ilford Rapid Fix fixer, use the same proportions.
Always follow the instructions (about dilution, shelf life, temperature for use, etc.) provided by the manufacturer.
3. Load the camera with 4x5" Harman Direct Positive paper in a dark changing bag. Before placing the camera in the dark bag, make sure the shutterdisc is in the right position (blocking the pinhole). Loading a sheet of paper into the back of the camera, might be a bit difficult the first time, as you won't be able to see what you are doing, but after the first or second time, you'll find it's actually super easy to do. Once the camera is loaded and you've ensured both the camera and the box of paper are properly closed, it's time to take the camera out of the bag and either preflash the paper, or go straight to exposing your shot.
Remember to only open the box of paper in 100% darkness or under a suitable safe (red) light.
All available information about the paper can be found HERE
OPTIONAL
Preflash the paper by moving the diffuser spot over the pinhole and placing a 1.000 lumen LED torch over the diffuser spot (Pinsta Pro only) for 20-30 seconds. Preflashing will extend the tonal range of the paper (resulting in a much less contrasty photo) and drastically reduce exposure times. Preflashing is not necessary and is always a creative choice.
4. Compose your shot. You can use the composition markers on your camera to determine your desired composition.
5. Meter the light of your scene to determine the expected exposure time for your shot. You can use a lightmeter, or a lightmeter app like "Lightmeter" by WBPhoto. Make sure your settings are f/229 (aperture) and ISO 1-3. Depending on the available light in the scene you're capturing, exposure times can range between several minutes, to several hours.
6. Capture your photo by moving the shutterdisc until the pinhole becomes visible. Once the pinhole is visible, your paper starts to be exposed to light.
7. Close the pinhole after the exposure is done, moving the shutterdisc one position to either side, so the pinhole isn't visible anymore.
8. Develop your shot using the syringes, slowly and steadily inserting developer fluid into the camera, while gently moving the camera around (agitating). Continuously agitate, making sure all of the paper gets in contact with the fluid. After 90 seconds, extract all of the fluid from the camera using the same syringe. You will see that approximately 5ml of the fluid stays in the camera, this is totally normal as it's been absorbed by the paper.
9. Fix your shot using the second syringe, inserting fixer the same way as you did with the developer. Agitate as before, for 60 seconds and extract, using the same syringe.
10. Wash your shot using the third syringe, inserting fresh water and agitating for about 2 minutes. Extract using the same syringe.
11. Open the camera and see the beauty you just captured!
12. Collect used water (and other fluids) in a container, take them home and dispose of them in the correct manner. Ask your local council for advice on how to dispose of chemical waste.
13. Remove the paper from the camera's back and place it in the magnetic drying frame, which will prevent it from curling up. Your picture will dry in a few hours. We advise you to let it dry in a dust free environment (like a case) and to not touch the emulsion side of the paper until it has completely dried up.
14. Dry out the camera with a cloth or some paper towel and you're ready to reload!
We hope you'll have a magical time capturing beautiful analog pinhole photos with your Pinsta Camera! If you have any questions about the process, please feel free to reach out to us. Happy shooting!
Pinhole photography | Pinhole | analog potography | analogue | photography | camera obscura | alternative photography
Thank you for this! It was so helpful. I made my first Pinsta print today. A few questions:
How do I remove the finished photo from the case without bending/ripping the edge? The paper was stuck to the back and I couldn’t easily get my nail under it.
Can I reuse chemicals? If so, do I need to do anything to them? How many times? What happens if I over use them?
You don't mention using Stop in between Dev and Fix.
My understooding was that stop extends the life of fix.
Do you not use stop at Pinsta HQ?
How much does pre-flashing change the exposure time? Is there some guide? Also, this ISO 1-3 business drives me mad 😆 - do you just use 2?
Thank you. I was having difficulty finding consistent info. I understand, and appreciate, the experimental aspect of the the Pinsta. However, it's good to have a starting point.
Very informative! Thank you! It’s great to have all of this information now in one place and step-by-step is super helpful!