Bit of a newbie question- with film I have to allow for reciprocity failure by increasing the exposure once I get over a second - does the same apply to Harman positive paper?
The short answer is no, not really. It's more like traditional darkroom paper in that respect. It's expecting a slow and dim exposure, and it's rare to see reciprocity failure having an effect on paper.
Hey all, finally got to try out my pinsta. I'm having an issue with water marks on my prints, giving uneven development. Is this an issue with how I'm rolling the chemistry? I tried presoaking as someone here recommended, but all that resulted was a white piece of paper. Any suggestions?
Hi, yes I did remove the water before developing. I have a suspicion i was forgetting about extending the dev time to account for the chemistry being weeks after a few shots.
I'll give it anouther go as soon as I get good weather again. Thanks for the tips!
.Was wondering any thoughts on being out and about and shooting multiple scenarios and keeping all developed images in water kinda like when shooting type 55 and you would keep negs in a smallish bucket with negative holders.
I guess there's no reason why the developed and washed prints can't sit in water if your out and about hiking around for a few hours?
There's probably no need. RC paper dries in a few minutes and the magnetic frames will keep your print safe while you pack away and walk to your next shot. Failing that, ziplock bags would probably be better than a water bath if you didn't have time to dry them for some reason.
Hiya Paul, if you overflash you'll get low contrast and over exposure. The DP can be used without flashing and you get a really nice high contrast image but you have to think about the composure of the shot a bit more. If you get it right it really pings though! I think it's closer to a 24mm. It's about 85 degrees FOV I think.
I like the idea on the video with the guy shooting buildings using what looks like an expandable conductors stick to give you an idea of crop left to right
I’m wondering what happens after the image is developed. Does the chemistry get dumped into the trash or on the ground? How is the compartment cleaned for a reload? Is there stop bath and fixer involved? What about potential silver being discarded with the chemistry? Thank you.
Hiya, you extract the chemistry with the syringe and re-use for 4-5 prints (it's quite efficient) then you must dispense the spent chemistry into a dump bottle for storage until you can dispose of it safely. Most refure sites have hazardous chemicals dump or you can extract the silver at home.
Has anyone else had problems with uneven development?
I keep getting a region of greater development, the there is a puddle of developer. I have tried increasing the development time, but that just results in a very dark result, and still has an even darker region.
I am using Ilford MG-IV and developing in Ilford Warmtone for 60s followed by fixing with Ilford rapid fix.
I only get that problem if I am not careful to agitate the developer carefully as I add it. You are adding it from one location so if you take 20 seconds to empty the syringe and are not careful to spread it across the whole paper as you add it the that means one corner gets developed for, say, two minutes 20 seconds while the rest gets just two minutes.
Make sure you are gently rolling the camera the whole time you are adding it as well as after.
Further to this, I have found that pre soaking the paper before development also helps a lot with the pooling issue. A 60sec wash with plain water before development seems to get rid of the problem completely.
The only issue is that you need to add about 15s of development time for each sheet you have already processed to compensate for the dilution.
I have a lightmeter but obviously the highest F stop I have is only 32 and the lowest ISO is 6 I think. I believe the Pinsta works with f266 and ISO 2 so is there an easy way for me to take a reading based on ISO 6 and F32 and convert it to see what the Pinsta needs? I looked at the calculators at Mr Pinsta (in your links section) but they are designed for film so the ISOs dont go that low (unless I am being stupid which is very likely)
For each halving of ISO, double the exposure time, and for each doubling of f stop, double the exposure time. So for ISO 3 paper, and f/256, multiply by 64.
The smaller oval hole gives a oval exposure on the paper with a bit of vignette at the edge. It's pretty cool, give it a try! The white blob is the enlargement spot for making enlargements and the red donut one is just a closed shutter, it's mainly there to give you something else to hold when spinning the disc.
You should be able to load the syringes up and carry them around in the dock, I've been doing it no problem. You want to be a bit careful it doesn't get knocked around I suppose. There is also a strap mount on the back of the dock so you can put it on your bag strap if you prefer?
The current docks are a little bit tight.. Twising them in helps. The latest ones we've been suaging out the nozzle holes to give more relief on the syringe.
A daft question here but how was it envisaged that the syringe holder would be used? Is it expected that you preload the syringes before leaving home? I have done that but was wary about having those extended plungers in my bag. It was also a bit of a squeeze getting the syringes in with the nozzles in the little holes and the 'handles' between the two bars. I know it needs to be tight to reduce leakage but it was so tight I was worried I would snap the nozzles.
It also looks like the holder is supposed to stand up but then why does the bottom have a smaller footprint than the top? Maybe I am mistaken and it was always mean to be laid on its back.
Why does the shutter disk have two holes (one large and circular and one smaller and oval) as well as what looks two 'enlargement apertures' though one looks to let no light in?I have been guessing that maybe the larger hole is really just for you to put your finger in an dial like on old telephone to move the disc :-) As for the extra enlargement thingie, I wondered if it was only there so you could easily feel that you had the pinhole covered while in the changing bag. Am I way off? :-)
Is there a FAQ on the differnece between the Go and Pro camera?
Thanks!
Bit of a newbie question- with film I have to allow for reciprocity failure by increasing the exposure once I get over a second - does the same apply to Harman positive paper?
Thank you paul
Hey all, finally got to try out my pinsta. I'm having an issue with water marks on my prints, giving uneven development. Is this an issue with how I'm rolling the chemistry? I tried presoaking as someone here recommended, but all that resulted was a white piece of paper. Any suggestions?
Many thanks,
Dan.
.Was wondering any thoughts on being out and about and shooting multiple scenarios and keeping all developed images in water kinda like when shooting type 55 and you would keep negs in a smallish bucket with negative holders.
I guess there's no reason why the developed and washed prints can't sit in water if your out and about hiking around for a few hours?
Just been playing with my new camera and i think i may have over flashed the paper on my first try. Plus i was shooting a still life backlit.
I understand the pips give u an idea of your edge to edge frame. My question is how wide of image is it. Like a 28mm or much wider?
Trying to gauge where the center of the frame is when i'm a few feet from camera.
I’m wondering what happens after the image is developed. Does the chemistry get dumped into the trash or on the ground? How is the compartment cleaned for a reload? Is there stop bath and fixer involved? What about potential silver being discarded with the chemistry? Thank you.
Potentially stupid question but do you we use dev/fix at stock or recommended dilution (1:4?)
Thanks
Has anyone else had problems with uneven development?
I keep getting a region of greater development, the there is a puddle of developer. I have tried increasing the development time, but that just results in a very dark result, and still has an even darker region.
I am using Ilford MG-IV and developing in Ilford Warmtone for 60s followed by fixing with Ilford rapid fix.
I have a lightmeter but obviously the highest F stop I have is only 32 and the lowest ISO is 6 I think. I believe the Pinsta works with f266 and ISO 2 so is there an easy way for me to take a reading based on ISO 6 and F32 and convert it to see what the Pinsta needs? I looked at the calculators at Mr Pinsta (in your links section) but they are designed for film so the ISOs dont go that low (unless I am being stupid which is very likely)
Hiya Robinhj,
The smaller oval hole gives a oval exposure on the paper with a bit of vignette at the edge. It's pretty cool, give it a try! The white blob is the enlargement spot for making enlargements and the red donut one is just a closed shutter, it's mainly there to give you something else to hold when spinning the disc.
You should be able to load the syringes up and carry them around in the dock, I've been doing it no problem. You want to be a bit careful it doesn't get knocked around I suppose. There is also a strap mount on the back of the dock so you can put it on your bag strap if you prefer?
The current docks are a little bit tight.. Twising them in helps. The latest ones we've been suaging out the nozzle holes to give more relief on the syringe.
Oliver
Pinsta Camera
A daft question here but how was it envisaged that the syringe holder would be used? Is it expected that you preload the syringes before leaving home? I have done that but was wary about having those extended plungers in my bag. It was also a bit of a squeeze getting the syringes in with the nozzles in the little holes and the 'handles' between the two bars. I know it needs to be tight to reduce leakage but it was so tight I was worried I would snap the nozzles.
It also looks like the holder is supposed to stand up but then why does the bottom have a smaller footprint than the top? Maybe I am mistaken and it was always mean to be laid on its back.
Why does the shutter disk have two holes (one large and circular and one smaller and oval) as well as what looks two 'enlargement apertures' though one looks to let no light in? I have been guessing that maybe the larger hole is really just for you to put your finger in an dial like on old telephone to move the disc :-) As for the extra enlargement thingie, I wondered if it was only there so you could easily feel that you had the pinhole covered while in the changing bag. Am I way off? :-)